Last Friday I visited a tomato farm an hour or so outside LA. The farm, which is run by an alum from mybusiness school, is actually more of a seed business with produce as a byproduct.
It was interesting to learn about the seed business--it's much more complex than I'd imagined. The company hires a lab to cross-pollinate different varieties of tomatoes. The lab then sends thousands of varieties of seeds to the farm. The farm grows some of the seeds in order to evaluate the quality of the tomatoes and also gets other local growers to test the seeds. After they've tested the tomatoes and gotten feedback from growers, they select a few varieties of tomatoes, usually by how perfectly round and unblemished they are (so they'll either sell at the grocery store or fit neatly in the machines of tomato sauce makers) and by how firm they are (so they can withstand being stacked in boxes). No consideration is given to the taste, texture, or nutritional content of the tomatoes.
After they select a few varieties, they send the "recipe" for creating the tomato seeds to China for workers there to mass produce. Basically, they tell them which tomato plants to cross-pollinate and then have them extract the seeds of the offspring. I asked what happens to the tomatoes that the seeds come from; the farmer had no idea but suspected they just get tossed. After the workers extract the seeds, they send them back to the farm in California. The farm then distributes them for over $700 a bag. They don't patent the seeds because the seeds are hybrids and are sterile and of lower quality after several generations. So, while that's a great natural protection to the business's "intellectual property" (which I don't think organisms should ever be), it makes tomato growers totally dependent on the seed producers.
On another note, the farm also grows heirloom tomatoes, which varieties of tomatoes that have been grown for at least 40 or 50 generations. They are big, beautiful, and completely irregular in shape and color. Some looked like gnarled yellow pumpkins, others were deep red with dark green streaks and still others were almost purple. We got to taste five or six varieties of the heirloom tomatoes (and take home, lucky us!), along with conventional grocery store tomatoes. The heirlooms had incredible flavor, colors, and texture, while the grocery stores tomatoes tasted a little bit like mushy styrofoam. Anyway, the farm sell its heirloom tomatoes at farmers markets within a 60-mile radius. The farmer talked a little bit about how many of the other stands at farmers markets just buy produce wholesale and then resell it. For tomatoes, he said one way to tell is to pick it up and feel the tomato. If it feels smooth like grocery store tomatoes do, it may have been waxed, which is a sign that's it was purchased from a wholesaler. If it feels a tiny bit rough, almost like it has a little bit of dust on it, then it's less likely to be from a wholesaler. You can also talk to the grower about his practices and get to know growers at farmers markets. If you're interested, they should be willing to let you visit the farm to see how the food is grown.
We also got to walk through the hothouses they grow hydroponic tomatoes, which I imagined growing out of some sort of aquarium. In reality, they way they are grown isn't all that different from tomatoes grown in soil. Instead of soil, the farmers use shredded coconut husks to grow the tomatoes in. They use the shredded coconut material because it is sterile and has no inherent nutrients. In each greenhouse there are bags of the shredded coconut husks, arranged in long, neat rows along with lengths of hose. The bags have small slits for the tomato plants to grow out of and a tiny hose inserted into each slit feeds the tomato plant a mixture of water and nutrients every half hour. Seems like a lot of work to replicate the qualities of soil when it's available for free just under the bags of coconut, but I guess if the goal is to maximize the yield, then maybe it makes sense. Growing tomatoes hydroponically also allows for more efficient water use, as the water that seeps out of the bags of coconut material is captured and recycled.
